Deep in the Amazon rainforest in Peru, our small boat noisily chugged its way up the river against the muddy current. As we slowly rounded a bend, we carefully dodged the trunk of an unfortunate palm tree that emerged from the swirling waters. Three turtles carefully balanced on the narrow perch with their heads surrounded by the most colorful butterflies I have ever seen. The butterflies gently alighted on the turtle's heads to carefully drink the salty brine from turtle's eyes. It was a contrast of imagery that we would witness many times in this incredible place.

We were on our way up the Tambopata River to the Tambopata Research Center at the Posada Amazonas Lodge. At the center a dedicated research team continues the work of Eduardo Nycander who began to study the ecology and natural history of large macaws in order to protect them throughout the tropics. The lodge itself is now run jointly by Rainforest Expeditions and the local community and is supported by many private institutions such as EarthWatch, the World Wildlife Federation, and Duke University.

Eduardo was concerned about the falling populations of large macaws due to habitat loss and the rising trade in exotic birds and animals. He discovered that many macaws lay up to three eggs at a time, but the last bird hatched rarely survived. So, he designed a nesting box that allowed the smallest bird to be removed and raised by hand. Although this project was a success, the macaws became imprinted on humans and even today many hand-raised macaws called "chicos" return to the research center to steal food and because of their lack of fear of humans, they are very susceptible to being captured and sold in the illegal pet trade, or simply killed as a nuisance.

Eduardo also attempted to leave the small birds in the nest so they would not become imprinted on people. Researchers would open the boxes and feed the small birds, but many of the birds died anyway. Research is continuing at the centers.

However, one of the most amazing aspects of the Tambopata is the clay licks where thousands of macaws and parrots gather every morning at daybreak to nibble on the mineral rich banks of clay. Like the butterflies that gather around the eyes of the turtles, colorful macaws and parrots of all descriptions and sizes gather in a noisy cacophony of color and sound. Although it is not completely understood why the birds eat the soil, many theories center around mineral content found in the clay to help with digestion and neutralization of dietary toxins. Even mammals are attracted to the clay licks.

The clay licks also serve as a social center for the birds to gather together before they begin their day. Perhaps the clay licks are somewhat like a macaw Starbucks. A place to gather and meet up with friends before taking off for parts unknown within the rainforest.

There are many other clay licks along the Tambopata River, but the one near the Research Center is the largest clay lick in the world and has been featured in National Geographic Magazine.

I feel very fortunate to have witnessed this incredible site on several mornings as the birds slowly gather around the steep banks of clay, then suddenly blast off in a frenzy of color and an explosion of screeches and squawks. The sky literally darkens with shades of green, red and blue as the birds suddenly take off and slowly return to the Amazon forests beyond the lick.

For more articles or information about visiting or donating to the project, go to http://vtpb-www2.cvm.tamu.edu/brightsmith/.

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Jim Caldwell has worked as a professional filmmaker and photographer since the late 1970s. He has traveled extensively around the world and is currently organizing a photo workshop in Costa Rica for late March 2008. If you would be interested in more information about the workshop contact Jim at jamesfc@tampabay.rr.com.