When most of us think of swamps and the Southeastern US, we think of the Everglades and the other marvelous places in Florida. These are great places for nature photography, but there is an alternate
that is less crowded, less heavily photographed, and which has some different choices of subjects. These notes will share what I learned in my initial explorations of this place, the Okefenokee Swamp of Georgia.
Where is it and where can I stay?
The swamp covers a National Wildlife Refuge, a state park, and a local park in extreme Southeast Georgia. Closest major airport is Jacksonville, Florida, but Atlanta may have better airline access, and is a doable four or five hour drive, mostly on interstate. There is excellent road access to all major entrances. Camping is available at Stephen Foster State Park or immediately outside the swamp at commercial campgrounds. If you have the skill and confidence, canoe camping in the park is allowed with a permit. Excellent cottages are available in Stephen Foster State Park, and there are hotels in towns outside the refuge. Main towns for access are Waycross, Georgia (North Entrance) and Folkston, Georgia (East Entrance). Fargo, Georgia is outside the West Entrance, but facilities are extremely limited there.
What subjects are available?
Birds - A variety of water birds, such as herons, egrets, and anhinga year-round; warblers in early Fall; ducks, teal, and other waterfowl in winter; woodpeckers, hawks, and osprey.
Reptiles - Large numbers, notably alligators and turtles. Potentially seen most of year, but less active in December and January. Snakes are present, but much harder to see. Before exploring here, be familiar with poisonous snakes of the area, and keep in mind that the alligators look sluggish, but can be dangerous!
Mammals - Squirrels and white-tailed deer are very common and tame, especially in Stephen Foster State Park. River otters and black bear are not common, but are reportedly visible, especially during November-January. Otters are most active when cooler weather restricts alligator activity. Locals report bears are most often spotted along cleared paths that mark old logging roads or fence lines.
Macro - A great variety of insect subjects. Flowers of one type or other almost year-round. Unfortunately, opportunities for mosquito photography will be extensive in the summer.
Landscapes and Scenics - Unusual swamp subjects. Cypresses and
sweetgums provide fall color that is quite different from the Florida swamps. Excellent opportunities exist to use reflections in water on windless days.
Hand of Man - Original homesteads of settlers are preserved in some places, including a restored family home that was used for almost 100 years. Abandoned railroad equipment is visible near Kingfisher Landing and on Billy's Island in Stephen Foster State Park. Billy's Island has foundations of old buildings, and is reputed to have a couple of accessible 1920s-vintage auto hulks (I
did not confirm this). These are potentially interesting subjects as the swamp reclaims them. Obediah's
Okefenok is a local attraction that is reported to be a living history museum, but I did not check it out myself.
What are some good locations to get me started shooting?
There are three main entrances to the swamp, and two minor ones. Of the main ones, the East entrance (which goes to the main refuge visitor center) is probably the best one for birds.
There is an observation tower at the East Entrance for long distance viewing, and a good trail system. Chesser Island Homestead preserves an ancient family home. A concessionaire, Okefenokee Pastimes, offers powerboat tours, guided canoe tours (including a special photography-oriented one that looks interesting but expensive), and canoe and powerboat rental. I did not use their services, but did talk to the staff, and found them impressive. The park entrance closes in the evening, and all visitors must be out except for those with a canoe camping permit.
The West Entrance goes to Stephen C. Foster State Park, a state park operated in cooperation with the Refuge. This park has excellent cottages for rent. I stayed several days in one and recommend them. The cabins are officially rated for eight people. My
judgment is that they would hold four people in great comfort. The cottages have complete cooking facilities (including dishes and cookware). Be forewarned that there is not a cafeteria in the park, and only a very limited selection of provisions sold there for preparation in the cabins. A small grocery store and two small diners are available at Fargo (25-minute drive), but selections are limited. I recommend stocking up on groceries in Waycross (about 1-hour drive) before coming to the park. Note that you are locked into the park at night! Camping facilities are also available in the park. Staying in a cottage or campsite here is the easiest way to spend the night in the park. There are two developed nature trails, one a boardwalk over the swamp itself. The views from the trails are very limited, but I did find the ground-bound trail an excellent place for macro. Guided boat tours are available, and canoes and powerboats are available for individual rental. There are well-marked and wide "trails" through the swamp for boat or canoe use, and two rangers assured me that even swamp novices were able to pilot boats through them easily and without getting lost. My trip on the guided tour supported this, but unfortunately, by the time I worked up the courage to rent a boat and go out by myself. The weather had turned bad, and I had to leave. You can tie up a boat or canoe at Billy's Island and explore the island. Disembarking at other places in the swamp is probably not a good idea, as the ground is unstable in many places. I believe getting out on the water in a boat is the best option for landscape or reptile photos there. For the landlubbers, deer and squirrels are very tame in the built-up area.
I was advised that the North entrance was not as interesting as the others, so spent my time in the other areas. The North entrance leads to a park operated by local government within the refuge.
I am told boat tours are available there. National Wildlife Refuge flyers stated that various passes such as a Duck Stamp or National Parks Pass with Golden Eagle Stamp are not accepted there. Waycross, not too far from the North entrance, has the best facilities in the area, including numerous chain hotels and restaurants, and a Wal-Mart Supercenter.
What are some good web links for more information?
Okefenokee National Wildlife
Refuge
This is the official website for the federal refuge. It has valuable information, including a month-by-month description of the most interesting natural events in the swamp.
Okefenokee
Pastimes
This is the website for cabins, boat tours, and boat or canoe rental at the East entrance. They have guided canoe tours, including a photographic one in modified canoe.
Georgia State
Parks & Historic Sites
The official website for the state park at the West Entrance. Information on renting cottages is here.
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