I made my first trip to Great Salt Plains (GSP) NWR some 10 years ago. I was immediately awestruck by the shear number of birds present that fall day. Migration was in full swing, and as the sun began rising in the eastern sky, I witnessed thousands of American
white pelicans. An endless line appeared high in the northern sky, and then turned into numerous cascading pinwheels as the birds descended onto the lake. It was a magnificent sea of white. The line in the sky was still there as I left at 5:00 p.m. that afternoon. Later that week, biologists posted their official pelican count - 134,000!
Great Salt Plains, in Alfalfa County in NW Oklahoma, was established in 1930 "as a refuge and breeding ground for birds." It provides habitat for approximately 300 species of birds and 30 plus species of mammals. The 32,030 acres is divided into almost equal parts of non-vegetated salt flat, open water, and vegetated land (marsh, woods, grasslands, and cropland). Farming, grazing, prescribed burning and wetland draining/flooding are management tools used to enhance the habitat for wildlife. Many ponds and marshes have been built to encourage the growth of wild millet, alkali bulrush, smartweed and other moist soil plants that waterfowl use for food. A large diversity of birds and mammals are found on the refuge year round.
Spring - This is an exciting time to observe goslings, waterfowl in breeding plumage, songbirds and shorebirds. Thirty-six species of shorebirds have been documented during April and May. Sandpiper Trail provides an excellent viewing area for shorebirds. Spring is my favorite time to visit and photograph
wood warblers, orioles, killdeer and other migrating species.
Summer - The endangered interior least tern nests on the salt flats and can usually be seen feeding around the lake and spillway area. Thousands of egrets and herons nest on Ralstin Island in the Great Salt Plains Lake and can be observed feeding on refuge wetlands and grasslands. Ralstin Island is the only major rookery in Oklahoma for White-faced Ibis and the only known nesting site for
tri-colored heron. As a special guest of the NWR and US Fish and Wildlife Dept. last summer, I was able to tour the "off limits to the public"
least tern nesting grounds as well as Ralston Island. I had a wonderful time that day!
Fall - The colder, northern temperatures bring huge migrations of ducks, geese and
sandhill cranes to the Salt Plains during October and November. Endangered
whooping cranes often stop to rest for a day or two along the lake's west shoreline. Flocks of more than 50,000 white pelicans and 7,000 double-crested cormorants can be observed feeding on the abundant fish in the lake.
Winter - The Eagle Roost Nature Trail is open for viewing thousands of ducks and geese on Sand Creek Bay. It is not unusual to have 100,000 ducks and 90,000 geese on the refuge at one time. January is an ideal time to view the
bald eagles feeding along the shore. A rock jetty at Cottonwood Point is a great eagle viewing area.
The nearby city of Cherokee has a permanent population of Eurasian collared
doves. Rare finds listed on the Oklahoma Rare Bird Alert regularly come from the Salt Plains Area. Birders regularly report spotting over 100 species in a single day. Byron State Fish Hatchery, located north of the lake, has an excellent mile long "Watchable Wildlife" trail through trees, past swamps and through a mixed grass prairie. The RV campground below the dam is another excellent spot for American
roadrunners, eastern bluebirds and more.
Conditions will vary at different times of the year and according to bird populations, but there is always something to photograph. Many of the roads surrounding the lake are not paved, and after heavy rains, they become difficult to navigate. The nearest town (Cherokee) is a 17-mile walk, if you get stuck! Property adjacent to the refuge is also excellent for photography. But, remember to respect fences and obtain permission before entering private property. GSP is a 2 ½ hour drive from my home in central Oklahoma, but it is well worth the trip. I have not been disappointed a single time! I have conducted several bird photography workshops there, and we always found and photographed birds.
Bill Horn has been a lifelong resident of Oklahoma and has 25 years of
photography under his belt. The last 4 years Bill has focused his endeavors on compiling
photos of "The Birds of Oklahoma". He is the Editor/Field Correspondent for
PhotoMigrations and Senior Staff Photographer for Birdzilla.com.
Bill's work has been featured in several local, state, and national publications,
including Birder's World on-line magazine. He would like to invite you to visit his website located at
Birds of Oklahoma
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