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There are two regions in the world that offer unparalleled wildlife photography -- East Africa and the Galapagos Islands in South America. Both areas have extremely unique and exciting
animals to photograph, and in both cases the shooting is exceptionally easy.
Unlike East Africa, where you are confined to a vehicle for
your safety, the Galapagos Islands are the home to harmless creatures
that can be approached on foot. Indeed, in many instances the
mammals, reptiles and birds can't contain their curiosity and they
approach you! A trip to these islands is a photographic experience
of a lifetime.
A Narrow Window of Opportunity
The Galapagos are located six hundred miles west of Ecuador.
The archipelago straddles the equator, which means that the best
light for photography is limited to the very brief sunrises and
sunsets. When you are on or near the equator, the beautiful golden
tones of a low angled sun are seen for about thirty minutes after the
sun rises above the horizon in the morning and the same amount of
time before it sets in the evening. This is true at any time of
year. Contrast this with several hours of "sweet light" in Alaska
during the summer months.
You can still take good photographs in the islands for about
ninety minutes after sunrise and before sunset. During midday, when
the sun is high overhead, the light is so harsh, and the shadows are
so unattractive, that you're just wasting film. The only exception
to this guideline is when the sky is overcast. Photographers are
frequently disappointed when the sun is diffused by a cloud cover,
but instead of seeing harsh, midday shadows from an overhead sun, the
light is soft and flattering to many subjects, including people and
animals. When the midday sun is obscured by clouds, the time you
have to capture excellent shots is greatly extended.
The ideal lighting condition in the Galapagos is beautiful
sunrise lighting with a clear sky in the east, then a thin overcast
during the day, and then a blue western sky for sunset. This doesn't
often happen, but wishful thinking never hurt anyone.
Pack Light
To protect the islands, tourists are not allowed to wander
over each visitor site at will. With few exceptions, everyone must
stay on the trail. Photographically, this might seem to seriously
interfere with getting close to the animals. Let me assure you, it's
no problem at all. In many cases, you must walk around a nesting
bird or a snoozing iguana that is very comfortable indeed right in
the middle of the trail. There are so many individuals of all the
major species and they are so close to you that you'll feel it's the
easiest photography you've ever done.
Film Considerations
Since the animals are so close to you (sometimes you may have
to back up to focus!), super long telephotos are not needed (unlike
when shooting in Africa). The longest lens you'll need is a 300mm in
the 35mm format. A 200mm telephoto lens, or a zoom that includes
this focal length (such as a 70mm - 210mm), will probably be your
most valuable lens. But don't forget a wide angle. In some cases,
you can fill the frame with a close up of a bird, a reptile, or even
one of the playful sea lions, with a 20mm or 24mm lens. This is
truly unique in wildlife photography.
If you like packing light, you can really get away with only
two lenses. A wide angle and a telephoto zoom. An ideal combination
might be a 24mm and a 35mm - 350mm zoom. You will cover every
possibility plus a little more. But don't think the equipment you
have now isn't good enough, because even a 50mm normal lens will
enable you to get many great, frame-filling portraits of animals in
their natural environment.
I do recommend, though, that you bring an extra camera body
with several extra batteries. There are no photographic facilities
to speak of in the islands, and should your camera malfunction in the
middle of the blue footed nesting site, you won't ever forgive
yourself.
When I shoot wildlife, I usually use 100 ISO film, rather
than the slower Velvia (ISO 40) which I prefer. The additional speed
comes in very handy when choosing a faster shutter speed or more
depth of field. On my last trip to the Galapagos, I shot both
Fujichrome Provia and Kodak's new E-100. Both of these films are
superb in resolution, color saturation, and grain structure.
The number of rolls you bring depends on how much you like to
shoot. Bring at least fifty percent more than you think you'll need.
If you don't use all of it, then you will shoot it back home or on
your next trip. But the things to see and photograph in the islands
are so wonderful that you don't want to end up rationing film at the
end of the trip.
If you shoot medium format, like I do, you can unwrap each
roll of film and walk through the metal detectors at the airport
without incident. The plastic cores of each roll of film won't
trigger the alarm and your film can bypass the X-ray machines. With
six-pocket pants and a shirt with large breast pockets, I can carry
about 80 rolls of film on my body. 35mm shooters should ask for a
visual inspection because each film cassette is made of metal.
The Itinerary
Depending on which tour package you buy, several islands will
be on your itinerary. Some species occur only on one island, and if
you really want to photograph a particular bird or reptile, you will
want to make sure your trip includes that site. Tower Island, for
example, is the best place to photograph frigate birds, while South
Plaza is the location to find land iguanas.
Your hotel will be the boat. Different tour packages offer
various grades of boats, from first class to economy. Some have air
conditioning while others don't, and many have hot showers. I went
with Galapagos Travel (1-800-969-9014), and the boat they provided,
the San Jacinto, was beautiful, comfortable, and came with a
wonderful crew. I would strongly suggest that you choose a tour
devoted specifically to photography, and one that offers an early
breakfast so you can be shooting every morning when the sun breaks
the horizon. At the end of the day, you will want to stay on an
island until sunset. By Ecuadorian law, visitors are not allowed to
be on the islands before sunrise or after sunset.
I would also recommend going with a group that is small in
size. Too many photographers crowding around a backlit masked booby
can be frustrating. Small groups cost more, but it is well worth it
in terms of photographic opportunities.
Part of the experience in the Galapagos is snorkling.
Besides the beautiful starfish, seahorses, coral, and tropical fish
you'll see, the sea lions love playing with people. They will swim
all around you, nip playfully on your fins, blow bubbles in your
face, and show off their underwater acrobatics. It is one of the
most delightful travel experiences anywhere.
Trip Extensions
Most of the international flights from the United States to
Ecuador go through Miami and then Quito, the capital. I would
suggest, either before or after the Galapagos experience, that you
take advantage of being in this unique South American country and
visit other photogenic sites. An hour or two outside Quito are
several Indian markets with wonderful faces to photograph. You can
also visit and/or climb the perfect volcanic cone of Cotopaxi which
is 19,000 feet.
In the eastern part of the country is the Amazon jungle, the
home to a remarkable diversity of flora, fauna, and tribes people.
Shooting the jungle is very tough, because so many of its creatures
are secretive or nocturnal, but the experience is definitely worth it.
* ALL PHOTOS were taken with the Mamiya RZ 67 II supported by a Gitzo
carbon fiber tripod. My exposures were determined by a Sekonic L-508
hand held meter.
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Jim Zuckerman left his medical studies in 1970 to turn his love of photography into a career. He has lectured and taught creative photography at many universities and private schools, including UCLA, Kent State University, the Hallmark Institute of Photography, and the Palm Beach Photographic Center. He also has led both domestic and international photo tours for 26 years to Africa, Asia, Europe, South America, and the American Southwest.
Zuckerman has been a contributing editor to Photographic Magazine for 30 years. His images, articles and photo features have been published in scores of books and magazines including several Time-Life Books, publications of the National Geographic Society, Outdoor Photographer, Omni Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler, Science Fiction Age, Australia's Photo World, and Greece's Opticon. He is the author of ten books on photography.
His work has been used for packaging, advertising, and editorial layouts in thirty countries around the world. Jim's images have also appeared in calendars, posters, greeting cards, and corporate publications.
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